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The Mellah, an old Jewish district of Marrakech

Written on : 04 October 2019
By : Melchior Burin des Roziers
The Mellah, an old Jewish district of Marrakech

Let's discover an extraordinary district, the traditional Mellah of the Jewish populations of Marrakech. It was recently renovated by order of King Mohammed VI, in order to "preserve the historical memory of the sites" and "develop the tourist vocation of Marrakech".  A symbol of tolerance, the district is coming back to life and has regained all the splendour of its Jewish heritage.

A brief history of the Jews of Marrakech

A brief history of the Jews of Marrakech

The foundation of the city of Marrakech around 1070 by Youssef ben Tachfine coincided with the arrival of the first Jews in the region. The sovereign authorized them to settle in the city, which became the capital of an empire that extended as far as Spain and Portugal. 

In 1492, after experiencing eras of peace and times of persecution, the Jews were subjected to the Alhambra Decree: in a logic of Christianization of Spain, it was necessary to choose between conversion and exile. Many choose exile. There was then a massive exodus of Jews from Spain to Western Europe and the Mediterranean. It is in this context that Marrakech sees the construction of an important Jewish community within it.

1557: Saadian Sultan Moulay Abdallah demands the creation of a "mellah" in the ochre city, in other words, a district intended for Jews, as is customary in the country's various cities. The one in Marrakech has become the most important in Morocco over the years. In the shadow of the royal palace, this district benefits from the protection and security of the Sultan, who makes extensive use of the commercial and artistic talents of his Jewish subjects to enrich and beautify the city.

During its prosperous period, Marrakech assembled 30,000 Jews and 35 synagogues. Today, only two of them are still standing: the Slat al Azama synagogue and the Joseph Bitton synagogue, a stone's throw from Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs. 

With the creation of the State of Israel in 1948, the vast majority of Jews left the area. Only a small community of fewer than 200 people, often very old, still lives there and in good harmony with their Muslim neighbours.

The rebirth of the Mellah district

The rebirth of the Mellah district

Renamed Essalam ("peace" in Arabic) more than twenty years ago, the district returned to its original name in 2017: "El Mellah" ("salt" in Hebrew and Arabic) after an initiative by the king. Similarly, the ochre-coloured alleys have been given their Hebrew names. The plaque of the synagogue has its inscription "Talmud Thora".

The entire district has been completely restored, including its spice souk to the delight of tourists who come to immerse themselves in this very special atmosphere. Two other covered souks are organised daily in the district: the souk with clothes and fabrics (for djellabas and furniture) as well as the souk with jewellery, separated from the other two and located in a small rectangular courtyard on the other side of Riad Zitoun Jdid street. You will have plenty to do in this small market with lots to offer. In the past, the souk of the Mellah jewellers was a key place for trafficking gold and stolen jewellery from all over the world. 

In general, the souks of the Mellah are much calmer and quieter than the others, but you are not totally safe from scams! 

After strolling through the alleys and souks, tasting the various pastries and entering the synagogue of the Mellah, spend a moment of silence in the Jewish cemetery and its mixture of white and ochre graves, often anonymous and abandoned, in a setting of great sobriety.

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